By Woodie Walker
In the late summer of 1608, Capt. John Smith and a crew of 12 explorers from Jamestown maneuvered a 30-foot sailboat up the Rappahannock River. This was Smith’s second voyage of the summer, exploring the Eastern Shore and tributaries of the Chesapeake Bay. A week earlier, they were at the mouth of the Susquehanna River. Now they were headed up the Rappahannock, taking notes, drawing maps, and watching for potential enemies.
By mid-August, they were just below the modern-day Town of Tappahannock when a group of Native Americans from a Rappahannock village called out to them. Standing in shallow water at the mouth of Piscataway Creek, the natives offered to trade. Smith was willing to talk. But it was a trap. Moments later, at least one warrior was dead, more Rappahannocks were wounded, and Smith was making a hasty escape upstream. The fight was short and furious. Smith estimated the Rappahannock warriors had fired a thousand arrows at his boat. None of the Englishmen were hurt, but they had learned a lesson about the strength of the local villagers.
More than 400 years have passed since then, but modern-day explorers can still experience Piscataway Creek, much as it was when Rappahannocks roamed its shores, setting fish traps, and digging Tuckahoe roots. The creek is a haven for wildlife. Once you are on the water, and out-of-sight of the highway, the view is classic Tidewater marsh. Bald eagles, ospreys, great blue herons, and other top predators abound. Catch the tide right, and you can glide into the smaller creeks and sloughs and get away from it all.
The public boat launch is a sandy slide. Parking is available, but it’s limited. Leave Tappahannock going south on Route 17. About three miles outside of town, you’ll cross Piscataway Creek. Take the next right and follow the Ferry Landing access road until the sign says, No Trespassing. Drop your gear and park back near the highway.
The launch is great for canoes and kayaks. Small boat trailers can get in, too, but that’s about it. You can explore downstream, below the highway bridge, but I almost always go upstream. Like most coastal waterways, Piscataway Creek is tidal, and the wind can get up quickly. Going upstream makes the return trip more manageable.
You can paddle up about two miles without too much trouble. It gets shallow at low tide, however.
Launch on a rising tide to get into the little creeks. Get in place as the tide falls, bringing the fish out to the creek edges. Look to catch Blue Catfish there, and White Perch, but also target Northern Snakehead, especially on a fly rod. Their new name is Chesapeake Channa, to make them seem more palatable, perhaps. Most find them palatable by any name. They do make a good taco.
Paddle Piscataway is pretty much year-round but watch the water temp. A great day can start in the Piscataway and end in Tappahannock, at Maltese Brewing Company 2, or Northern Neck Burger. Both locations feature local brews and excellent food.
If you are a history buff, check out the Essex County Museum in Historic Downtown Tappahannock. Look for John Smith in the Chesapeake in the gift shop, by local historian Edward Wright Haile. It’s the perfect explorer’s companion, linking John Smith’s historical narratives to modern locations.
Woodie Walker is the owner of Rappahannock Adventures, offering guided eco-tours and angling adventures on the Middle Peninsula.